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K N I T W A R E S W E A T E R D E S I G N USER MANUAL Shareware version 1.10 January 1992 Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd. 7604 Morningdew Road R. R. #5 Victoria, B.C. CANADA V8X 4M6 This manual and the KNITWARE (TM) program and data are Copyright (C) 1991, 1992 by Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd. All rights reserved *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 1 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. INTRODUCTION 1.1 Design notes 1.2 Caution 2. INSTALLING THE PROGRAM 2.1 Floppy Disk Installation 2.2 Hard Disk Installation 3. GETTING STARTED 3.1 Starting the Program 3.2 Initializing 3.3 Set Designer Defaults 4. MENU OPTIONS 4.1 Design a new pattern 4.2 Change existing pattern 4.3 Print pattern instructions 4.4 Utilities 4.5 Help 4.6 Quit 5. ENTERING DESIGN DATA 5.1 Designer Data 5.2 Yarn and Gauge Data 5.3 Sweater Style Data 5.4 Finished Measurements Data 6. HOW TO QUIT 7. IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM... 8. SYSTEM MESSAGES APPENDIX A Detailed Knitting Instructions B Comment/Problem Form C Shareware Order Form *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 2 0.1 LIMITATION OF LIABILITY KNITWARE Sweater Design is supplied as is. There are no warranties, expressed or implied. MORNINGDEW CONSULTING SERVES LTD DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES RELATING TO THIS SOFTWARE, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, AND ALL SUCH WARRANTIES ARE EXPRESSLY AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMED. NEITHER MORNINGDEW CONSULTING SERVICES LTD. NOR ANYONE ELSE WHO HAS BEEN INVOLVED IN THE CREATION, PRODUCTION, OR DELIVERY OF THIS SOFTWARE SHALL BE LIABLE FOR ANY INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES ARISING OUT OF THE USE OR INABILITY TO USE SUCH SOFTWARE EVEN IF MORNINGDEW CONSULTING SERVICES LTD. HAS BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES OR CLAIMS. IN NO EVENT SHALL MORNINGDEW CONSULTING SERVICES LTD.'S LIABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES EVER EXCEED THE PRICE PAID FOR THE LICENSE TO USE THE SOFTWARE, REGARDLESS OF THE FORM OF THE CLAIM. THE PERSON USING THE SOFTWARE BEARS ALL RISK AS TO THE QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE OF THE SOFTWARE. This agreement shall be governed by the laws of the Province of British Columbia and shall inure to the benefit of Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd. and any successors, administrators, heirs and assigns. Any action or proceeding brought by either party against the other arising out of or related to this agreement shall be brought only in a PROVINCIAL or FEDERAL COURT of competent jurisdiction located in Victoria, British Columbia. The parties thereby consent to in personam jurisdiction of said courts. Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd. reserves the right to update the contents of the KNITWARE Sweater Design program and its associated data and documentation at its discretion and without the consent of or any obligation to any licensed users. 0.2 LICENSE KNITWARE Sweater Design is NOT public domain or free software. This version of KNITWARE Sweater Design is distributed as "SHAREWARE". KNITWARE Sweater Design is Copyright (C) 1991, 1992 by Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd. All rights reserved. Morningdew Consulting permits the copying and transfer of the Shareware Version of KNITWARE Sweater Design to others, under the following conditions: 1. No fee shall be charged for copies of the KNITWARE Sweater Design program, its data, or documentation. A charge for the copying service and media is allowed as long as this charge does not exceed $10.00. 2. The recipient receives an unmodified copy of all the KNITWARE Sweater Design files, including this document. 3. You may not disassemble or decompile the KNITWARE Sweater Design files or in any fashion attempt to reverse engineer the program. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 3 0.2 LICENSE (continued) Morningdew Consulting encourages the copying and transfer of the program to others so that it may be evaluated by as many interested users as possible. After the evaluation period, it is expected that the users either register their copy of the program, or discontinue using it. 0.3 TRADEMARK ACKNOWLEDGEMENT MS-DOS is a registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation. XT, AT, and PC-DOS are registered trademarks of IBM Corporation. BOND is a registered trademark of Kimberly Marketing Corporation. 0.4 REQUIRED EQUIPMENT KNITWARE Sweater Design will run on most IBM PC/AT/XT/PS-2 or compatible computers, with at least 256 KB of free RAM after DOS and any TSR programs are installed, PC-DOS or MS-DOS 2.1 or greater, one floppy disk drive, and a printer. A hard disk and a colour monitor are optional. 0.5 REGISTRATION INFORMATION The cost of registration is $40.00 (Canadian) or $35.00 (US), including shipping and handling and all applicable taxes. This registration fee provides you with the following benefits: 1. You will receive the most recent commercial version of KNITWARE Sweater Design. You will also receive a printed manual. 2. It will put you on the mailing list to receive information about KNITWARE updates and new programs as they become available. Updates will be provided at a minimal cost (to cover media, processing, and shipping costs). 3. We will provide you with free support by mail and/or telephone for at least 6 months after registration. We encourage you to support the Shareware method of software distribution by becoming a registered user. A registration form is provided in Appendix C of this manual, or can be printed from the file KWSORDER.DOC. 0.6 MONEY BACK GUARANTEE If you are not completely satisfied with your REGISTERED version, you may return it within 60 days for a full refund. NO QUESTIONS ASKED. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 4 1.0 INTRODUCTION The KNITWARE Sweater Design program has been written by a knitter for knitters. I knit both by hand, and using a BOND CLASSIC knitting frame. I was frustrated by the continual need to convert patterns for different yarns, or sizes, for changing a neckline, or lengthening a sleeve. The KNITWARE Sweater Design program was the eventual outcome of this frustration. This program will print a knitting pattern for you to use in knitting a customized sweater, using the data that you give it, and tables of standard body measurements and needle sizes. The program uses your measurements, your style selections, your gauge and yarn information to create a unique pattern. This pattern also gives you a permanent record of what you have knitted, and when. The pattern instructions are written for either hand or machine knitters. The machine knitting instructions are very simplified, assuming you are using a basic knitting frame, without a ribber. If you have a ribber (lucky you) feel free to use it. There are no specific instructions for punchcard or electronic machines. KNITWARE Sweater Design will handle most combinations of the following: - Knit body of sweater in stocking stitch by machine or hand. - Knit ribbing by machine or hand. - Pullover or cardigan style. - Drop shoulder, raglan, or set-in (fitted) sleeve style. - Crew (round) or V neckline, or rolled cowl collar. - Body length: waist, regular, hip, or coat. - Children's sizes 20 - 32, Women's sizes 30 - 48, Men's sizes 32 - 52. - Variable amount of ease from very tight to oversized fit. - All default finished measurements (e.g. length of body, ribbing, sleeve, depth or width of neck, etc.) can be changed. - Measurements in imperial (inches) or metric (cm). - Calculate amount of yarn required. There are many things the program doesn't do. If there is something particular you would like to see, let us know about it. The program is continually under revision, and I am happy to incorporate anyone's good ideas. Particularly important, please let us know if you find any mistakes or errors. The program has been tested exhaustively, but there are so many possible combinations that some small mistakes may have slipped through. In this documentation, values to enter on the screen are often shown in quotes (e.g. "N") to help distinguish them from the surrounding text. Only the value inside the quotes should be typed, NOT the quotes themselves. Please refer to section 5.1 for information on data entry, keyboard functions, help, error, and verification messages. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 5 1.1 DESIGN NOTES The program gives you a pattern for a plain sweater tailored to your size and specifications. You can easily add stripes, intarsia, lace holes, cables, etc.. Remember, if adding cables (or anything else that will change the stitch gauge), to either knit a test swatch with the cables (if a lot of it), or to adjust the ease a bit (for a small amount). If you are using two or more different yarns (e.g. body in a multi-coloured nubbly yarn, ribbing in a plain yarn) it is a good idea to make a test swatch with each yarn, and run the program twice, once with each stitch gauge. You will have to manually combine the two patterns, or decide which bits to use, but it will give you a better-looking finished garment. 1.2 CAUTION The patterns created by the KNITWARE program will produce wearable, well-fitting sweaters in most cases. However, just as for off-the-shelf patterns, knitting with the wrong needles, or to a different gauge will give unpredictable results. With the KNITWARE program, you have an even greater possibility of error, since you can also change any of the measurement data. For example, you could make the front neck width wider than the back neck width, or the wrist measurement larger than the upper arm. There are far too many possibilities for the program to check them all, we assume that you will use common sense. Also, if you do change any measurement data, check your measurements and the knitting instructions for reasonableness, BEFORE starting to knit. 2.0 INSTALLING THE PROGRAM This program can be run on any IBM-PC compatible micro computer. The computer must run under DOS, have a 5.25" or 3.5" diskette drive, and a printer. The program can be run from the diskette or installed on a hard disk. The following instructions are to be executed from native DOS. You may have easier ways to do these things if you have a DOS shell, windows or menu program installed. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 6 2.1 FLOPPY DISK INSTALLATION Before running the program for the first time, you should make a working copy of the KNITWARE diskette, in case the original is destroyed. Use the DOS DISKCOPY command to format a blank diskette and copy all the files. If you need more information, check your DOS User's Guide. Insert the KNITWARE diskette in drive A. If you have two floppy drives of the same size (i.e. both 5.25 or both 3.5), insert the blank diskette in drive B and type the following: DISKCOPY A: B: [Enter] Otherwise (only one floppy drive, or two of different sizes), type: DISKCOPY A: A: [Enter] and follow the instructions on the screen. When the copy is complete, label the working copy. Store the original KNITWARE disk in a safe place. 2.2 HARD DISK INSTALLATION If you have a hard disk, the Sweater Design program can be installed on it. The install program provided with KNITWARE will create a directory called KNIT on the hard drive of your choice. If the directory KNIT already exists, the install program will use it. If you do not want to use the default KNIT directory, then do not use the install program. Instead, create your own directory and copy the files from the KNITWARE disk to it. To run the install program, insert the KNITWARE disk in the floppy drive, and type a command of the format: KWSINSTL X Y [Enter] (e.g. KWSINSTL A C) X should be the floppy drive directory (usually A or B), and Y is the hard drive directory (usually C, might be D, E, or F, etc.). When the install is complete, remove the KNITWARE diskette and store it in a safe place. You will not need it again to run the Sweater Design program. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 7 3. GETTING STARTED Before you start running the program, you need a few things from your knitting world: - An idea of the sweater design that you want to knit. - The size, and approximate finished measurements required (or at least an idea as to how your model varies from the "average"). - The yarn information, from the manufacturer's ball-band, or from the spinner, if homespun. - A test swatch of the yarn knitted on the needles (or dial gauge or keyplate) and the pattern (usually stocking stitch) that is to be used for the body of the sweater. From this, the gauge over 4 inches (10 cm) for rows and stitches must have been calculated. AN ACCURATE TEST GAUGE IS CRUCIAL to designing and knitting a sweater that will fit well. 3.1 STARTING THE PROGRAM Once the program has been installed (see Section 2), you are ready to run it. If installed on hard disk, go to the working directory. Under native DOS, type: CD \KNIT [Enter] Replace KNIT with the name of your directory, if different. KWS [Enter] If running from a floppy disk, insert your working copy of the _______ KNITWARE disk in drive A and type: A: [Enter] To point to drive A as your working directory. KWS [Enter] *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 8 3.2 INITIALIZING The Sweater Design program will start with a Designer Identification Screen. * * * * * DESIGNER IDENTIFICATION * * * * * * * * Name: * * * * [F1] Help [Esc] Quit * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The program needs to know who you are, so it can retrieve the correct designer defaults and pattern data for you. The first time that you run the program, the name field will be blank. Whenever you run the program after that first time, the name that you entered will be displayed. To use the displayed name, simply press [Enter]. To use a different name, type over the displayed name, then press [Enter]. If for some reason you do not wish to run the program at this time, simply press the [Esc] key, and turn off the computer (removing the disk first if running from floppy disk). 3.3 SET DESIGNER DEFAULTS The first time you run the program (that is, the first time the program recognizes a new name), you must set the designer defaults. The designer defaults data screen is displayed. Read section 5.0 for general information regarding data entry, and section 5.1 for specifics relating to the designer data form. In general, you use the down arrow to move from one field to the next. If you wish to change the data shown, press the [Enter] key, and a menu of valid selections will pop up. Highlight a value from the menu, using the first letter or the up and down arrows, then press [Enter] to make your selection and return to the form. Enter the values you would most commonly use. For example, you may knit both by hand and machine, but if you use the machine most often, select "Machine" from the menu. When you have entered this data, it is saved on a file, and these values are then used as the defaults for any patterns that you design with the program. Any or all of them may be changed at design time. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 9 4. MENU OPTIONS The Sweater Design program is run from the Main Menu. MAIN MENU Design new pattern Change existing pattern Print pattern instructions Utilities Help Quit Press cursor keys or first letter of command to position cursor, then press [Enter] to select. To highlight a line (position cursor), type the first letter of an option (or command), or use the UP and DOWN arrow keys. Press the [Enter] key to make your selection. In a typical session you would design a new pattern (first option), and print it. After checking the printed measurements, you may decide to change the pattern (second option), and print it again. If you lose the pattern instructions, or it becomes too tattered, you can then print the changed instructions again (third option). A full description of each menu option, along with how and when you might want to use it, is given in the following sections. 4.1 DESIGN A NEW PATTERN This is where it all starts. You have some wool, a test swatch, some ideas as the size and style of sweater you want. Here all your information is entered, and the program calculates the number of stitches, of rows, of decreases, and cast-offs to make this one-and-only just-for-you sweater. Section 5 takes you through the data entry procedures step by step. When all the data has been entered and verified, the program saves it and gives you the option to print it. Usually, you would print the pattern, but you may exit at this time, and print it (selecting the print option from the main menu) in a later session. When the program is ready to save the data it will display: Enter pattern name: Try to choose a name that is meaningful. One suggestion is the name of the person the sweater is knitted for, followed by a description, number or date (e.g. Mary flowers, Judith Oct90, Kevin#7). The name may be up to 15 characters long, and be composed of letters, spaces, numbers and most special characters (e.g. - * # , . /). _ If the name already exists on your pattern file, a message will be displayed and you will have to choose a new name. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 10 4.2 CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN If you want to change some part of a saved pattern design, you should choose this option. Initially, the program will display: LOAD OLD PATTERN DATA PATTERN NAMES CURRENTLY ON FILE: 1. aaaaa 6. fffff 2. bbbbb 3. ccccc 4. ddddd 5. eeeee Type number for pattern name, [ESC] to quit, [Page Up] or [Page Down] to scroll: Up to fifteen pattern names will be displayed at one time. If the pattern name that you require (it is printed at the top of your pattern) is not shown, use the [Page Down] key to scroll down to it. When the pattern name you want is displayed, enter the number associated with it, then press [Enter]. Pattern name is: xxxxxxxx Accept: Yes or No: Y The confirmation message just checks that you selected the correct number. If the pattern name is the one you want, press [Enter] to verify, otherwise press 'N' then [Enter] to chose a different pattern name. When the pattern data has been retrieved, the program proceeds to the "Entering Design Data" screens. Your data values, as they were last entered, will be displayed. To change any of this data, follow the instructions in Section 5. For any screen that you do not wish to change, simply press [Page Down] to accept the data as displayed. When the Finished Measurements have been verified, the data must be saved again. The screen will show: Current pattern name: xxxxx Re-save pattern under old name(O) or with a new name (N): O If you are just correcting some values, and you have no reason to save the old data, press [Enter]. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 11 4.2 CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN (continued) If, however, you have made major changes to create a new pattern from an old one, or you want to decide between the two at some later time, press "N" [Enter]. The program will then request a new name for the pattern data. See section 4.1 if you need further information. All data that is displayed for a CHANGE is as you last entered and stored it. This holds true for measurement data as well, as long as none of the size or style data is changed. However, when you change ANY of the size, sex, or style data the program will recalculate default values for ALL the measurement data. If the measurement data has been recalculated from default values, the "** Default Measurements **" message will appear near the top right of the data entry window. This may occasionally be a nuisance. For example, if you change the size, if affects every measurement field, so recalculating them is important. However, changing from a crew to a V neck affects only the neck shaping, and if you have previously customized sleeve length, back width, etc., these custom changes to the measurement data will have to be re-entered. After the changed data has been saved, you would normally print it. 4.3 PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS When you have just finished designing a new pattern, or changing an old one, you are automatically given the option to print it. You should print the pattern to verify the details. You can then use it to knit the sweater. The print procedure may also be used to print a pattern that has been saved on file previously. If you select the print option from the main menu, and there is a current pattern, the following message is displayed: Print current pattern (C) or one from file (F): C For the current pattern (name is displayed on the upper left of the screen) simply press [Enter]. If you wish to print a different pattern (that you have previously saved on file), type 'F', then press [Enter]. In this case the LOAD OLD PATTERN DATA screen will be displayed (see section 4.2). The next message displayed is: Calculate amount of yarn required (Y/N): N *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 12 4.3 PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS (continued) There are many ways to calculate the amount of yarn required. The program uses only one method, and for that method you must tell it how far one ball of yarn will go. To find how far one ball will go, you can simply cast on a number of stitches (e.g. 50) and knit until the ball is finished, or you can continue knitting your test swatch until the ball is gone. Optionally, you can initially say no to this question, and start knitting your sweater. When one ball is gone in knitting the back, then re-run the program saying Yes to this question, and check whether you have purchased enough yarn to finish the garment. If you have knit up your one ball, then type 'Y' and press [Enter]. One ball of yarn knits stitches by rows. Fill in the blanks (e.g. if your one ball knitted 27.5 rows of 50 stitches, you would type 50 on the first line, and 28 on the second line), then press [Enter]. The final message displayed is: Check that printer is turned on, and set to top of form. Press any key to continue. Check your printer is turned on, that the paper is inserted correctly and is set to the top of form. The pattern prints on standard letter size paper (8.5 x 11 inches). If you commonly use a different size, check that the correct size is loaded, and the form length is set to 11. The pattern usually prints on two pages. The time taken will depend on the speed of your printer. 4.4 UTILITIES Certain procedures that are used infrequently are combined under this heading. Selecting the Utilities option on the Main Menu brings up the Utilities Menu. UTILITIES MENU Change designer defaults Delete pattern data List pattern names Return to main menu Select "Return" if you do not wish to do a utilities function at this time, or when you have completed the utilities function(s). *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 13 4.4.1 CHANGE DESIGNER DEFAULTS The first time that you used the program, you had to enter the Designer Defaults (see Section 3.3). However, as you use the program more, or as your needs change, you may want to change some of these default values. Changing the designer defaults is identical to Setting Designer Defaults (Section 3.3) except for the values displayed on the screen. Change those values that you wish to and they will be changed on the defaults file. Upon completion, you will be returned to the Utilities menu. 4.4.2 DELETE PATTERN DATA As the number of patterns on your pattern file increases, accessing (loading and/or saving) the data takes longer. The program allows a maximum of 99 patterns on the file, but you will probably decide long before then that the file access is taking too long. You may also have patterns on the file that were trials, never used, or unwanted. The delete function can be used to tidy up the file. WARNING. Once deleted, the pattern data can no longer be retrieved or used again. The program does NOT make a backup of your pattern data file before the deletions are done. If you want a backup, refer to your DOS manual on how to do it. The file name is KWS PATT.DAT. _ The Delete Pattern Data utility function allows you to select which patterns to delete from the file. You may delete any number, from none to all of them. Selecting this option on the Utilities menu takes you to the DELETE OLD PATTERN DATA screen: DELETE OLD PATTERN DATA PATTERN NAMES CURRENTLY ON FILE: 1. aaaaa 6. fffff 2. bbbbb 3. ccccc 4. ddddd 5. eeeee Type number for pattern name, [F2] for all deletes selected, [ESC] to quit, [Page Up] or [Page Down] to scroll: Enter the number of the first pattern to delete, verify the name, then enter the next number as it is requested. Pattern numbers may be entered in any order. Pattern numbers marked for deletion will be highlighted on the screen. Press [ESC] at any time to exit without deleting any patterns, for example, if you enter and verify a pattern that you really want to keep. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 14 4.4.2 DELETE PATTERN DATA (continued) When you have finished selecting the pattern numbers to delete, press [F2] to physically delete the patterns from the file. The computer will take a few moments to process the deletes, and then will display: PATTERN FILE DELETIONS COMPLETED. Press any key to continue. when finished. Press any key and you will be returned to the Utilities Menu. 4.4.3 LIST PATTERN NAMES This function allows you to look at the names of the patterns you have stored on the file. It simply displays the pattern names in the same format as the CHANGE or DELETE, and allows you to scroll through them using the [Page Up] and [Page Down] keys. Press [ESC] when you have finished. 4.5 HELP A lot of the information covered in this manual is available as on-line help. There are two kinds of help in the Sweater Design program. During data entry, when you are entering information to specific fields, pressing the [F1] key will provide a single line of information in the lower left of your screen. It will describe the field, its uses, whether it is mandatory or optional, etc. General information about the different program functions is available through the HELP option on the Main Menu. Selecting the HELP option will bring up a series of menus for you to select the topic of interest. The information will be displayed on a full screen. Use the [Page Up] and [Page Down] keys to scroll through the screens, [ESC] when you are finished. 4.6 QUIT When you have finished your Sweater Design session, select this option to quit. This ensures that all files are closed properly and that no data will be lost. This option may also be selected before any other, in case you remember that there is something else that you should be doing instead. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 15 5. ENTERING DESIGN DATA All data entry for this program follows a few simple rules. - Default (displayed) values will be used unless you type over them. - Type the value you want, then press the [Enter] key. - The backspace <--, [Insert], and [Delete] keys can be used to change data as it is being entered in a field. - You may use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to move from one field or position to another, without changing the data. - The [Esc] key is used to quit the data entry altogether, and return to the Main Menu. - Use the [F1] key for Help. A single line of instructions will be provided at the bottom left of the screen. - Use the [Page Down] key to bypass all or the remaining fields on the screen, if they do not need changing. - A "BEEP" will sound if you try to enter a character in a numeric field, or if your data is too long. There are two major types of data to be entered: mandatory, and optional. Mandatory data fields are those that will be used to calculate the pattern data. Some examples are: stitch and row gauge, size, sleeve length. If the required data values are not accurate, the sweater will, in all probability, not fit. Optional data is for information purposes only. It is printed on the pattern to help you remember when, or with what the sweater was knitted. Some examples of optional data are: the date finished, for whom the sweater is knitted, the yarn information. Some data values are entered by a pop-up menu selection: e.g. sex, size. Use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to move from one field to another. Use the [Enter] key to select a field to change. A menu of options will pop up. The first option, "No change", allows you to return to the data entry screen without changing the previously displayed value. Otherwise, use the first letter or cursor keys to highlight an option, then the [Enter] key to select. After the last data field on the screen has been passed, the verify message appears near the bottom of the screen: Press ENTER to Accept, any other key to Edit. You should check everything on the screen. If all is fine, press [Enter], and the program will display the next screen. However, if there IS something you want to change, press any other key, and the cursor will return to the first field on the screen. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 16 5. ENTERING DESIGN DATA (continued) The program checks all data as it is entered. If it is found to be incorrect, or questionable, the beep is sounded and a message is displayed in the lower left of the screen. The message must be acknowledged (press any key) before you can correct the entry. Most messages are self-explanatory, but if you have trouble, check Section 8 which contains a list of some messages and their explanations. However, not all possibilities can be checked by the program. You should verify that what you have entered on the screen is what you want, before pressing [Enter] on the Verify response. You should also check the printed pattern thoroughly (especially the Finished Measurements section) BEFORE starting to knit the sweater. 5.1 DESIGNER DATA The Designer Data Screen is the first screen to be displayed for designing a new pattern, or changing an old pattern. It is the same screen used for setting or changing Designer Defaults. The screen display is as follows: ----KNITTING METHOD----- Measurement units: ins Body of sweater: Machine Screen colour: Magenta Ribbing: Machine Type of knitting needles: Metric Type of knitting machine: Bond Ribbing done first or last: First All data fields on this screen are mandatory. Values are entered from pop-up menus. The default values shown on the screen will depend on what your designer defaults have been set to. Review the data on the screen, and determine which fields need changing for the current pattern. If the meaning of a field is not clear, press [F1] for help. If you do not want to make any changes, use the [Page Down] key to bypass each field on the screen, then press [Enter] for the verify message. If you change the COLOUR, the new colours will not be used until you finish the screen. If you have a monochromatic (no colours) monitor, your colour will automatically be set to "None". Changing it to a different colour may have unpredictable results. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 17 5.1 DESIGNER DATA (continued) If you are knitting either the body or ribbing by hand, the "TYPE OF NEEDLES" message will be displayed. Entering this field correctly will improve the clarity of the printed pattern. Likewise, if you are knitting either the body or ribbing by machine, the "TYPE OF MACHINE" message will be displayed. If you are changing from all hand or all machine to the other, or a combination, the screen will be displayed twice, the second time with the new "TYPE OF NEEDLES/MACHINE" message. You may knit both the body and the ribbing by machine, or both by hand. You may also knit the body by machine and the ribbing by hand. However, the program does not allow the reverse (body by hand, and ribbing by machine). If you are knitting both the body and the ribbing by machine, the "RIBBING FIRST OR LAST" message will be displayed. If you have a ribber, or prefer to do the ribbing first, continuing from it to the body of the sweater, enter "First". If, instead, you like to knit the body first, then rehang the stitches to do the ribbing, enter "Last". This field is used only to determine the order of the printed pattern instructions for the ribbing. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 18 5.2 YARN AND GAUGE DATA The second screen is for entry of the yarn and tension gauge information. Knitting sweater for whom: Start date: xxxxxxxxxxx Finish date: (Manufacturers) yarn name: Yarn colour(s): Yarn composition: Washing instructions: TEST SWATCH GAUGE: (over 10 cm = 4 in) Stitches: 20 Keyplate size for body of sweater: 4 Rows: 28 Keyplate size for ribbing: 3 The first seven fields on this screen are optional. If entered, they are printed on the pattern. Sometimes, it is handy to have this information available. At other times, you may feel it is a waste of time to enter the yarn data, and decide instead to tape a ball-band and a few strands of yarn to the back or the bottom of the pattern. The default value for START DATE is the current date. If there is not enough room in the yarn data fields, abbreviate some part of it and try again. The GAUGE DATA is crucial. Check the measurements and calculations of your test swatch gauge carefully. Remember that this gauge is measured over 4 inches or 10 cm (NOT one inch). DIAL GAUGE/KEYPLATE/NEEDLE SIZES are not used in any calculations, but they are necessary for clarity of the printed pattern instructions. The dial gauge/keyplate size messages are displayed if knitting by machine. NEEDLE SIZE messages are displayed if knitting by hand. The needle size should be in the needle type entered on the Designer Data. e.g. "4.25" is valid for metric, but not for American. The needle size entered will be checked against a table, and a message displayed if the value is not valid. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 19 5.3 SWEATER STYLE DATA The sweater style data screen is as follows: Sex: Woman Ease style: Moderate Size: 36 Sweater style: Pullover Sweater length: Regular Neckline style: Crew Shoulder style: Drop shoulder Sleeve length: Full All data fields on this screen are mandatory. Values are entered from pop-up menus. The SIZE and SEX are used to look up standard measurements in the size table, and to calculate the finished measurements of your sweater. The sex field is important; the measurements for a child's 32 are different from a woman's 32, which are in turn different from a man's 32. Usually, you should chose the size closest to the actual chest measurement. CHILDREN's sizes relate to approximate ages as follows: Size (in): 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 Size (cm): 51 56 61 66 71 76 81 Age: 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 As we are all well aware, children vary greatly in their growth. The chest size, body length and arm lengths should be used primarily in selecting a size, not the age. For example, the sweater knitted for a short chubby 4 year old will not fit his tall skinny 4 year old friend. EASE STYLE determines the amount of ease in the garment. It varies from very tight (with no ease) to oversized (which has 5 to 6 inches of ease around the chest for women's sizes). Ease is applied to the chest, back width, armhole and upper arm measurements. The CARDIGAN style is for a buttoned front on overlapping vertical ribbing, which is the same width as the neckline ribbing. The SWEATER BODY LENGTH code is used to calculate the finished body length measurement. It is also used to determine where the ribbing will fit. Use "Waist" to have the ribbing snug around the waist, "Hip" or "Coat" to have it fit around the hips, "Regular" to have it fit between the waist and hips (exactly where depends on the finished body length measurement). Note: if you want the ribbing to fit more snugly below the hips for a coat length sweater, you may want to decrease the body ribbing width. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 20 5.4 SWEATER STYLE DATA (continued) Both the CREW (round) and V NECKLINE have a ribbing finish. The instructions call for a K1P1 rib by hand, or a 2x1 rib by machine. However, it is a relatively easy matter for an experienced knitter to change this to a different kind of ribbing, or to a rolled neck, a picot edge, etc.. The COWL NECK is for a fairly loose collar knitted in stocking stitch, that will roll naturally. Knitting to a tighter gauge (smaller needles/keyplate/dial gauge) will give a collar with a closer fit. Likewise, a looser gauge will give a looser fit. Optionally, the collar may be knit in garter stitch, or any ribbing or pattern, instead of stocking stitch. The COWL NECK collar is knit in one piece on the sweater, with a seam on the left side. When finished, and rolled down, the right (knit) side will be showing. The SLEEVE LENGTH style is used to calculate the finished sleeve length, and to determine where the sleeve ribbing will fit. A full length sleeve will come down to the hand, and the ribbing will fit around the wrist. A 3/4 length sleeve will end midway between the wrist and elbow, and the ribbing should fit around the forearm at that point. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 21 5.5 FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA An example of the finished measurements data screen is as follows: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA Woman's size 36 with Moderate fit. * Default measurements * ---------- SET-IN SLEEVE REGULAR LENGTH PULLOVER ----------- Chest: 38.1 Back width: 13.8 Body length: 22.7 Ribbing: 34.2 incl. ribbing: 2.5 ---------------------- CREW NECKLINE ----------------------- Front neck width at bottom: 3.5 Back neck width: 6.5 Front neck depth at centre: 3.7 Neck ribbing: 1. -------------------- FULL LENGTH SLEEVE -------------------- Armhole: 16. Sleeve top: 11.8 Sleeve length: 18.3 Ribbing: 7.1 Sleeve bottom: 7.9 incl. ribbing: 2. Not all of the fields shown above will be displayed for every style. Back width is used only for set-in sleeves. Neck ribbing length is replaced with collar length for a cowl neck. Sleeve top (upper arm) measurement is not needed for a drop shoulder style. The data shown here is that which the program calculated using the size and style data that you entered in the previous screens, and the size table. The size table contains standard or "average" measurements for given sizes. How close to average you are will determine how many of these fields you will want to change. Since it is hard to check all these numbers on the screen, it is a good idea to print the pattern using this "first-pass" data, check the data from the printed pattern, then return to the program to change those fields that need changing, and finally print the revised pattern to knit from. Not every measurement needs to be checked. Check those that are crucial to the fit of the garment, and the way you want it to look. All data shown on this screen (except size) are finished measurements of the sweater. They are calculated including the ease specified in EASE STYLE. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 22 5.5 FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA (continued) BODY RIBBING WIDTH (labelled as ribbing, below chest on screen) is the finished measurement of the ribbing when very slightly stretched, so that it fits comfortably at the length specified. SLEEVE BOTTOM is the finished measurement of the sleeve at the wrist for full length sleeves or at the forearm for 3/4 length sleeves. To allow for blousing, it is a separate measurement from SLEEVE RIBBING WIDTH (shown below it on the screen). The ribbing width is measured at the same place, for a comfortable fit of the ribbing when it is very slightly stretched. LENGTHS are also calculated with a certain amount of ease, for comfort and style. Remember this ease when measuring your body and sleeve lengths. The finished measurements for body and sleeve length include the ribbing length shown below them. BODY LENGTH is measured from the back of the neck (below the neck ribbing) to the bottom of the ribbing. SLEEVE LENGTH is measured from the underarm armhole seam to the bottom of the ribbing. NECK measurements do not include the ribbing. Neck depth is measured from the centre bottom front of the neck to the top. The front neck width for a cardigan is both sides combined. NECK RIBBING length is also used as ribbing width for the vertical front button/buttonhole ribbing on a cardigan. While reviewing or entering the finished measurement data, you may decide that you would like to try a different size or style. In that case, press [Page Up] to return to the STYLE DATA screen. This allows you to try several different sizes or styles, to see what the finished measurements look like, without having to save, or re-enter all the other data. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 23 6. HOW TO QUIT The most common way to quit is to select the Quit option from the main menu. This closes the files and exits neatly from the program. However, for any one of a number of reasons, you may wish to quit before completing the pattern you are working with. If you wish to exit while in the data entry process, you can press [Esc], and you will be returned to the main menu, where you can choose option Quit. Remember, if you press [Esc], that your current data will NOT be saved. If you have a problem with the program, and even the [Esc] key does not work, try [Ctrl] [Break] held down together. This is not such a tidy way of exiting, the data you were working on will be lost, and files will not be closed properly. If even this does not work, you will have to reset your computer, and start your session all over. Remove any diskettes you may have in your floppy drives. To reset, press the RESET button if you have one, press the [Ctrl] [Alt] and [Del] keys all together, or turn the machine off, then on again. 7. IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM If you have a problem, first note (on paper), the exact nature of the problem. If it's a message on the screen, then do a [Print Screen]. Next read the documentation thoroughly. If it is all still Greek to you, then get help. For the install, DOS commands, file recovery, or start-up, you need someone who knows a bit of DOS and how computers work. If it is something that has always worked fine before, try resetting your system, and starting again. If it is a problem with the way the program works, the results it gives you, or the data it uses, describe it on the Comment / Problem Form (Appendix B) and mail or phone it to us. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 24 8.0 SYSTEM MESSAGES: There are several types of messages that may appear on your screen. Usually the beep will sound and the message will appear at the bottom left of the screen. Most of the messages require acknowledgement (press any key), and a change in the input data. Fatal errors will exit from the program, and will require a change to the system environment before the program can be re-run. Most messages are self-explanatory, ones that may be confusing are listed below to help you understand them, and to continue with your sweater design. 8.1 INFORMATION MESSAGES: These messages are displayed to provide information regarding the status or activities of the program. They may request you to wait until a certain action is completed, before entering any more data. ESC KEY PRESSED. PRESS ENTER TO VERIFY, ANY OTHER KEY TO RETURN. This message is displayed to ensure that the [Esc] key is not pressed accidentally. Escaping from certain activities could lose a lot of data. If you pressed the [Esc] key intentionally, now press [Enter] to confirm. Any other key will return you to the point you were before pressing [Esc]. * * * WORKING. DO NOT DISTURB * * * Wait; do not use the keyboard. This message is displayed when the program is busy accessing file data, or doing calculations. If the file is large, a few seconds may be required to complete the operation. No keyboard instructions can be accepted at this time. 8.2 WARNING MESSAGES: These messages indicate that the data entered MIGHT be incorrect. The program will accept your entry, and move on to the next field. However, you should check the value you entered carefully, and if it is incorrect, return to the field and revise it. *** DELETE A PATTERN NOW OR NEXT ONE WON'T SAVE A maximum of 99 patterns are allowed on the pattern file. You have 98. You MUST delete at least one now, or the next time you try to save a pattern there will not be room on the file for it. See Utilities menu, section 4.4.2. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 25 8.2 WARNING MESSAGES (continued): NECK OPENING MAY NOT BE BIG ENOUGH. CHECK MEASUREMENTS. For a child's size 24 or less, a machine knit crew neck pullover with grafted drop shoulder sleeves may not fit over the child's head. You can increase the back neck width, front neck width, and/or front neck depth. You can instead use set-in or raglan sleeves, or do not graft both shoulders. The pattern will print the warning message too. If you have remedied the situation as suggested above, then ignore it. The pattern will also print instructions for a shoulder button placket closure. NEEDLE SIZE NOT FOUND ON FILE. The needle size you entered was not found on the needle size table for your needle type (Metric, Canadian, or American). However, the value you entered will be accepted unless you change it. Verify the value before continuing. PATTERN FILE NEARLY FULL. TIME TO DELETE. A maximum of 99 patterns are allowed on the pattern file. You have 90 or more. You should delete some of them, using the Utilities Menu Delete Pattern Data function (see section 4.4.2). SLEEVE TOP TOO WIDE FOR RAGLAN SHAPING. WILL MAKE NECKLINE TOO BIG. The sleeve top measurement is too large, compared to the body measurement. The raglan shaping for the sleeve should match that of the back and front. With your measurements, this leaves a large section at the top of the sleeve to incorporate into the neckline (which will make it baggy). Usually we like to keep this section less than 2 in. (adult sizes). Your options are: - If the measurement is fairly small, leave it as it is. - Decrease sleeve top measurement. - Use set-in sleeve or drop shoulder style. - When knitting, decrease raglan slope on sleeve more steeply than for back and front. Make sure you keep the same number of rows on sleeve cap, as on the printed pattern. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 26 8.3 ERROR MESSAGES: These messages indicate that an error in the data entered has been found. The value entered will not be accepted, and MUST be revised. ARMHOLE DECREASES TOO FLAT/STEEP FOR RAGLAN SHAPING. This is probably an error in your finished measurements data. A too flat condition may be caused by a comparatively very large chest measurement, small back neck width, or small armhole measurement. Likewise, a too steep condition may be caused by small chest / large back neck / large armhole. In particular, a raglan sleeve is not suitable for a wide back neck. Check your measurements. If an error is found, change the data, and try printing the pattern again. If you think your data is reasonable and see no reason why it should be changed, send me a note with screen prints of all the input and measurement data. Otherwise, try a set-in sleeve or drop shoulder style. CANNOT HAVE COWL NECK ON CARDIGAN OR SMALL CHILD. Cowl neck styling is not included for a cardigan, or for a child size 24 or less pullover (it would not fit over their head). Try a different neckline style. IF BODY KNITTED BY HAND, RIBBING MUST BE BY HAND ALSO. There is no option to allow hand ribbing on a machine knit body. If you really need this, print the pattern for all hand, then change it to all machine, and print it again. MEASUREMENT DATA OUT OF RANGE, NOT REASONABLE. The finished measurement data is all numeric. For each field the program has a predefined 'range of reasonableness'; e.g. you can have 2 inches of ribbing, but not 20 inches. This message is displayed when the program detects that the data you just entered is outside this range. NO DATA ON PATTERN FILE. Most probably you have requested an old pattern file name, but have not yet stored any on file. Once a new pattern has been stored on file, it is then available for change or printing. PATTERN NOT SAVED. PATTERN FILE IS FULL. The pattern file is full, it has the maximum of 99 allowable patterns on it. Your current pattern has NOT been saved. You must delete at least one pattern now (see Utilities section 4.4.2), then re-enter your new pattern again to save it. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 27 8.3 ERROR MESSAGES: (continued) PATTERN NAME ALREADY ON FILE. CHOOSE A NEW ONE. When saving pattern data, you have chosen a name that already exists on the file. Each name on the file must be unique, so you will have to change this new one slightly, and try again. SEX, SIZE COMBINATION NOT FOUND ON SIZE TABLE. Only certain combinations of size and sex are valid. Default data for these combinations is stored on the size table. Valid combinations are: children sizes 20 - 32, women sizes 30 - 48, and men sizes 32 - 52. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 28 8.4 FATAL ERROR MESSAGES: These messages indicate that the error found was so severe that the program cannot continue. After acknowledgement of the error, the program will exit. Be sure to note the error message, (or use [Print Screen] key to print it) before acknowledging the message. Section 8.4.1 lists error messages for missing data files. If your message is one of these, follow the instructions in that section. Otherwise, continue reading here. Some examples follow: FATAL ERROR. WN OPEN FAILED IN ..... FATAL ERROR. WN FRMOPN FAILED IN .... _ RECOVERY. After the program has quit, restart your computer system, and try again. If the error persists, there is probably a problem with the program. Try re-installing the Sweater Design program (see section 2 and use the original KNITWARE disk). If the error still persists, write or call us for a new copy of the program at no charge. 8.4.1 FILE MISSING MESSAGES: These messages are displayed when one of the data files is missing. The program needs this data to continue working. The data files were originally installed from your KNITWARE disk to your working disk (see section 2.0), but may somehow have been deleted. BACKUP DEFAULTS FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN. BACKUP PATTERN DATA FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN. NEEDLE SIZE FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN. PATTERN DATA FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN. SIZE TABLE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN. DESIGNER DEFAULTS FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 29 8.4.1.1 RESTORE SYSTEM DATA FILES System data files are those files that the program reads only, it never writes user data to them. They are: size table, needle sizes table, and the original defaults and pattern files. To restore the data for these files, take your original KNITWARE disk and copy the required file to your working directory. With the original KNITWARE disk in drive A, follow one set of steps below, depending on where your working directory is. For a hard disk installation, type: cd \knit to change to the working directory, then type one of the following: copy a:kws size.dat c: for size data _ or copy a:kws ndl.dat c: for needle sizes _ or copy a:kws dflt.org c: for original defaults _ or copy a:kws patt.org c: for original pattern data _ If running the program from floppy disk, insert the working disk in drive B, then type one of the following: copy a:kws size.dat b: for size data _ or copy a:kws ndl.dat b: for needle sizes _ or copy a:kws dflt.org b: for original defaults _ or copy a:kws patt.org b: for original pattern data _ *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 30 8.4.1.2 RESTORE USER DATA FILES User data files are those files that the program modifies with user data. They are changed every time the program is run. They are the designer defaults file and the pattern data file. To restore these files you should copy from their backups. If the backups are also missing, then the original files will have to be copied from the KNITWARE disk. (see 8.4.1.1). For a hard disk installation, type: cd \knit to change to the working directory, then type one of the following: copy kws dflt.bkp kws dflt.dat for designer defaults _ _ or copy kws patt.bkp kws patt.dat for pattern data _ _ If running the program from floppy disk, insert the working disk in drive A, then type one of the following: copy a:kws dflt.bkp a:kws dflt.dat for designer _ _ defaults or copy a:kws patt.bkp a:kws patt.dat for pattern data _ _ *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 31 APPENDIX A DETAILED KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS The instructions printed on the KNITWARE patterns should be sufficient for most knitters. However, inexperienced knitters or those trying a new technique may need more detailed instructions. For these reasons, step-by-step instructions for some of the repetitive, or more complex procedures are included below. These instructions cover only a few procedures. A good knitting reference book is essential, and the owner's guide for a knitting machine. Many knitting machines provide a step-by-step guide including diagrams, such as BOND's Row by Row Kit. There are many ways of doing each knitting procedure. For the KNITWARE patterns, I have selected only one way, usually the most common method. In some cases, I have instead used one that I feel works especially well, or provides a better result. You, of course, can choose the method you are most comfortable with. Just because the pattern says to sew side seams with an invisible seam, does not mean you cannot use an overlock stitch, a backstitch, or your sewing machine. Choose what works best for you. This appendix is divided into three main sections. The first is for those procedures common to both hand and machine knitting, mostly finishing details. The second section is for hand knitters, and the third for machine knitters. A.1 ALL KNITTERS ABBREVIATIONS: alt alternate beg beginning cm(s) centimetre(s) cont continue(ing) dec decrease foll following inc increase in(s) inch(es) K knit meas measures or measurement MY main yarn P purl rem remaining st(s) stitch(es) *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 32 A.1 ALL KNITTERS (continued) TENSION SWATCH: A tension or gauge swatch is one of the most important parts of your knitted garment. Without it, your sweater will not fit. Always knit a tension swatch BEFORE knitting your sweater. The gauge can change, not only between makes of yarn, but between different dye lots of the same yarn. Make your tension swatch and BE SURE!! Remember, also, to treat your swatch as you would your sweater, e.g. wash, dry, steam or block, BEFORE measuring. There are many different ways to do your tension swatch. Personally, I like to do a fairly large piece (at least 40 sts by 40 rows) to get a more accurate sample. You can measure out 4 inches in each direction, and count the rows and stitches. With nubbly, mohair, or very fine yarns this is sometimes quite difficult. In these cases, and especially easy on a knitting machine, you can mark off a fixed number of rows and stitches as you are knitting (e.g. 20 by 20). You then measure the marked area and convert it to a standard 4 inch (10 cm) gauge, using your handy calculator. INVISIBLE SEAM: This method of sewing side seams and underarm seams provides the cleanest finish. It takes a little longer, but the result is well worth it. 1. Place both pieces right side up, seams abutting each other, on a table or your lap. Using a tapestry needle, secure the yarn at the beginning of the seam. 2. Pick up the cross thread one stitch in from the edge, one side, then the other, for each row up the seam. Keep the pieces right side up as you work on them. 3. Pull the seam from top to bottom every few inches, to keep it elastic. BACKSTITCH: This stitch is most commonly used for ribbed seams and set-in armhole seams. 1. Place both pieces right sides together, on a table or your lap. Pin the seam to keep it from shifting. 2. Using a tapestry needle, secure the yarn at the beginning with a couple of overlapping running stitches, then move one stitch ahead. 3. Put the needle into the left end of the last stitch and bring it out one stitch ahead. Pull the yarn through to the front. Repeat until seam is finished. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 33 A.2 HAND KNITTERS KNITTING IN THE ROUND: The KNITWARE pattern instructions are all written for "flat" knitting, with straight needles knitting stocking stitch as knit 1 row, purl 1 row. You may prefer to knit in the "round", using circular or double pointed needles. They are particularly useful for cowl necks and neckline ribbing, giving an even unseamed finish. EQUIVALENT NEEDLE SIZES: If you have, as I do, a great variety of needles from many different sources, a conversion chart is invaluable. Following is a chart of equivalent needle sizes for those most commonly used (I have excluded the very large and the very small). Metric needles are in mm. Canadian needles are the same as Old U.K. .....small...........medium...........large.... Metric 2.75 3 3.25 3.5 3.75 4 4.25 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5 American 2 3 - 4 - 5 6 7 8 9 10 - Canadian 12 11 10 - 9 8 - 7 6 5 4 3 RIBBING: The pattern instructions call for K1P1 ribbing for back, front, sleeve and neckband ribbing. Experiment: try K2P2 ribbing, braided ribbing, cables, picot or garter stitch edging: please do not be limited by the pattern instructions. Think about what would look and work best for your sweater. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 34 A.3 MACHINE KNITTERS ABBREVIATIONS: COL Carriage on the left COR Carriage on the right FWP Forward working position (also called HKP) Needles halfway between WP and HP, latches should be open to knit. HKP Half-knit position (also called FWP) HP Holding position (needles all the way out) LH Left hand NWP Non-working position (needles all the way in) RH Right hand WP Working position (needles against the bed front) WY Waste yarn OPEN EDGE CAST ON: For an open edge cast on (ribbing to be done later), hang the weighted hem, thread up the carriage with waste yarn, and start knitting. Knit 6 rows with waste yarn, then change to MY, and reset row counter to 0. CLOSED EDGE CAST ON: This cast on method is used for a finished edge that will not unravel, such as ribbing. COR, thread the carriage with MY, push the needles to HP, and tie yarn to left-most needle. Wind thread anticlockwise around the needles behind the latches, one at a time. Hang the hem, put needles to FWP, and knit. For a closed edge cast-on for a rib, do as above, leaving every third needle in NWP. When ribbing, remember to twist the bottom ladder around the latchet tool to form the bottom stitch. RIBBING: The pattern instructions call for 2x1 ribbing. This could as easily be 1x1 or 2x2. Different types of ribbing will give differently, and some types may be unsuitable for certain types or weights of yarn. For those of us with a single bed (knitting machine bed, that is!) the ribbing may be done in several ways. The instructions mention two ways, but you should use the method that is most comfortable for you, and will work best for your sweater. If you happen to be lucky enough to have a ribber, use it. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 35 A.3 MACHINE KNITTERS (continued) SLEEVE GRAFTING: A drop shoulder design is ideal for grafting the sleeve on. The sleeve is worked on the garment from the armhole edge down to the wrist. Follow the instructions as detailed on the pattern. You may find that the armhole between the markers will not stretch as far as the required number of needles (you are knitting to a very tight gauge with a non-stretchy yarn). Your options are to either use fewer needles and adjust the sleeve decreases, or to pick up a few more sts from the front and back to fit the required number of needles. GRAFTING A SHOULDER SEAM. The shoulder seams for a drop shoulder sweater lend themselves to grafting on the machine. This gives a very clean join, and no seam to sew by hand later. A set-in sleeve shoulder can also be grafted, if the stitches are put into HP instead of cast off as the decreases are done, and then knit with waste yarn to hold them. 1. Bring out the given number of needles to HP. 2. Rehang sts from left back shoulder, with knit side facing, and waste yarn folded down towards you. Push these sts behind the needles and remove the waste yarn. 3. Rehang sts from left front shoulder, purl side facing, and waste yarn folded to the back, in the open latches of the same needles. The right sides of the knitting will be together. Remove the waste yarn. 4. Pull the sides of the back piece forward so that the latches close and the back sts are pulled over the front sts and the needles. One row of sts remains. Push needles to WP, latches can be open or closed. 5. Use a keyplate or dial gauge 2 - 3 sizes larger than you used to knit the body. Place carriage on side of knitting that has the long strand. Thread carriage with the long strand. 6. Knit the row. Cast off using the latch tool method. LATCH TOOL CAST-OFF. Provides a firm, non-elastic edge. 1. Start at end opposite the carriage. Remove the first st with the latch tool, and place behind the latch. Remove the second st into the hook of the latch tool. 2. Pull this st through the first st. Continue in the way across the row. 3. Pull the end of the yarn through the last st. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 36 A.3 MACHINE KNITTERS (continued) BACK STITCH CAST-OFF. Provides an elastic edge. 1. Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail. Insert it into the first st in the row, pull the yarn through. 2. Insert the needle into the second st and pull it out through the first st. 3. Continue, going into the third and out the second, into the fourth, etc. until you reach the last st. 4. Fasten off the yarn, and remove the knitting from the machine. *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 37 APPENDIX B COMMENT / PROBLEM FORM Name: ________________________________________________________________ Address: _____________________________________________________________ City: State/Prov: _______________________________ _____________________ Country: Zip/Postal Code: ____________________________ ________________ Date: Program Version: _______________________________ ________________ Serial Number: __________________ Comments or Description of Problem:___________________________________ To: Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd. 7604 Morningdew Road R.R. # 5, Victoria, B.C. Canada V8X 4M6 Phone: (604) 652-4097 *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 *** *** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 38 APPENDIX C KNITWARE REGISTRATION FORM Name: ________________________________________________________________ Address: _____________________________________________________________ City: State/Prov: _______________________________ _____________________ Country: Zip/Postal Code: ____________________________ ________________ Unit Qty Price Total KNITWARE registration . . . . . . . . $35.00 US___ (includes all applicable taxes) . . $40.00 Can ____________ Shipping and handling outside ___ U.S.A. and Canada . . . . . . . . . . $ 5.00 ____________ TOTAL ____________ Disk format: 5.25" 3.5" _____ _____ We will accept US or Canadian currency. Make cheques payable to: Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd. Send this form and your registration fee to: Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd 7604 Morningdew Rd. R.R. #5 Victoria, B.C. Canada V8X 4M6 Please fill in the following information if you can. It may help improve our product and service to you. Computer: PC-XT-286AT-386AT-PS/2 Model: Make: ____________ ____________ DOS version: RAM: K Hard Disk: Yes - No ____________ ______ Display: CGA-MCGA-EGA-VGA Floppy Disk: 5.25" - 3.50" How did you receive your copy of KNITWARE? If it is a BBS or shareware distributor, please indicate the name. BBS - SHAREWARE DISTRIBUTOR - FRIEND Name: ____________________________ *** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***